Finding the right lowrance active target pole mount can seriously change the way you fish, especially if you're tired of chasing your trolling motor around. If you've spent any amount of time using live sonar, you probably already know the struggle: you're trying to track a big fish or a brush pile, but your trolling motor keeps kicking left and right to stay on a Spot-Lock position. Every time the motor moves, your view on the screen jumps away from the target. It's frustrating, and honestly, it can make a high-tech piece of gear feel like a bit of a burden.
That's where a dedicated pole mount comes in. By moving the transducer off the motor and onto its own independent pole, you get total control over where you're looking, regardless of what the boat is doing. It's one of those upgrades that feels like a luxury until you actually use it, and then you realize you can't really go back to the old way.
Why You Should Stop Mounting to Your Trolling Motor
Most people start by mounting their Active Target transducer directly to the shaft of their trolling motor. It makes sense—it's easy, it's included in the box, and it doesn't require extra hardware. But the limitations show up pretty quickly. When the wind picks up and your motor starts working overtime to keep you on a point, your "eyes" underwater are spinning in circles.
A lowrance active target pole mount solves this by separating the steering of the transducer from the steering of the boat. You can point the boat into the wind to stay stable while manually aiming the transducer toward the structure you're actually fishing. This independent control is huge for precision. If you're targeting a specific stump or a school of crappie suspended over a bridge piling, you need that image to stay rock-steady.
Choosing Between Different Mount Styles
There isn't just one type of pole mount out there. Depending on how your boat is set up, you've got a few different ways to go. Some guys prefer a simple deck-mounted version, while others need something that works with a track system or a bow rail.
Deck-Mounted Poles
These are probably the most common. They usually involve a base plate that's screwed or bolted directly to the front deck of the boat. The pole then drops into the water over the side. These are great because they're incredibly sturdy. When you're moving at a decent clip or dealing with heavy current, you don't want a flimsy pole vibrating, as that can distort your sonar image.
Track and Rail Mounts
If you don't want to drill permanent holes in your fiberglass, or if you have a boat with integrated gunwale tracks (like many Lunds or Trackers), a track-mounted pole is the way to go. These give you the flexibility to slide the mount forward or backward depending on where you're sitting. Plus, if you decide to sell the boat later, you don't have a bunch of extra holes to patch up.
Manual vs. Motorized Poles
Believe it or not, there are even motorized pole mounts now. These allow you to rotate the transducer using a foot pedal or a remote. While they're definitely cool, a lot of anglers still prefer a manual handle. There's something about the tactile feel of turning a handle by hand that makes it easier to "feel" where you're looking. Plus, there's no motor to break or battery to die.
What to Look for in a Quality Mount
When you're shopping for a lowrance active target pole mount, it's easy to just go for the cheapest option, but that usually ends in regret. You're hanging a thousand-dollar transducer off this thing; you want it to be solid.
Durability is everything. Look for mounts made from high-grade aluminum or heavy-duty composites. You want something that won't rust after one season in the rain or snap if you accidentally bump into a dock. The mounting bracket needs to be stiff. If there's too much "play" in the handle, it'll be hard to get an accurate read on exactly which direction you're pointing.
Ease of deployment is another big one. You want a mount that you can drop into the water and pull back out in seconds. If it's a chore to stow the pole every time you want to move to a different spot, you're going to get annoyed pretty fast. Most good mounts have a quick-release mechanism or a simple tilt-and-lock system.
Cable management often gets overlooked. The cable coming off your Active Target transducer is thick and can be sensitive. A good pole mount should have a way to secure that cable so it doesn't get pinched, tangled, or caught in the propeller. Some poles have clips, while others just require a few well-placed zip ties, but the goal is to keep that wire safe and out of the way.
Dialing in Your Settings
Once you have your pole mount installed, you'll notice that your screen looks a little different. Since the transducer is likely in a slightly different position than it was on the trolling motor, you might need to spend five minutes tweaking your Lowrance unit.
The main thing to check is the "Installation" menu on your HDS or Elite FS unit. You can tell the software exactly how the transducer is mounted. Since you're on a pole, you'll want to make sure the orientation (Forward, Down, or Scout mode) matches what you're actually doing out on the water.
One of the coolest parts about using a pole mount is how much easier it makes using Scout Mode. On a trolling motor, Scout Mode can be awkward to aim. On a pole, you just twist the handle, and you can scan a wide area in front of the boat to find those bait balls or weed edges in seconds.
Practical Tips for the Water
If you're new to using a pole mount, there's a bit of a learning curve for your hands. It's almost like learning to pat your head and rub your stomach at the same time. You're steering the boat with your foot on the trolling motor pedal while simultaneously aiming the transducer with your hand.
It takes a few trips to get the muscle memory down, but once it clicks, it's incredibly effective. I usually suggest starting in an area with a known piece of structure, like a bridge pier or a buoy. Practice keeping the transducer locked on that object while you move the boat in different directions. You'll quickly see why the independent movement is such a massive advantage.
Another tip: keep the pole at the right depth. You don't need the transducer five feet underwater. Usually, just deep enough to be clear of the boat's hull or the trolling motor's turbulence is plenty. If you have it too deep, you're just creating more drag and making the pole harder to turn.
Is the Investment Worth It?
Let's be real—fishing gear is getting expensive. Adding a dedicated mount on top of the cost of the live sonar itself can feel like a lot. But if you look at it from a "time on the water" perspective, it's one of the best values you can get.
If you spend half your day fighting your trolling motor just to see a fish, you're losing fishing time. A lowrance active target pole mount makes your time more efficient. You see more, you cast more accurately, and ultimately, you catch more fish. It turns the "hunt" into something much more controlled and much less chaotic.
Whether you're a tournament pro or just someone who enjoys a quiet Saturday on the lake, getting that transducer on a pole is a move you won't regret. It takes the guesswork out of the equation and lets the technology do what it was designed to do: show you exactly what's happening under the surface without the interference of your boat's positioning.